14 August 2006 4PM Koh Tao, Thailand

We passed! Four days of videos, lectures, shallow water, and open water dives and we are certified PADI open water divers. James our instructor is half English, half Swedish. Must be early to mid 20s. When we asked how long he'd been on the island, he said, "Coming up on one year... no, wait... two years. It's hard to keep track of time when every day is a Saturday." He reminds me a bit of Ewan McGregor (sp?). Francine from Germany, recently trained, is our assistant instructor. Can't be older than 22 or 23. Taking a year off to travel, came here to learn scuba, and now is staying on for a few months teaching it. Our core group is Willie, Gillie (Gillian), Julie, and Bella and I. Willie and Gillie are traveling together from Ireland. Not dating - met at a wedding and both headed in this direction. Willie has a poorly healed scar across his left cheek. He was hit in the face with a bottle during a bar fight, and tells me he "left hospital" before it could be fixed properly. Thai doctors in Bangkok would fix it for a few hundred Baht (10s of dollars) but he's used to it and may leave it alone. Gillie doesn't speak much, so her story is a bit less clear. Julie is English, also on gap year, and will head next to Australia. Friendly, outgoing, winning smile.

We may spend a few more days here before moving south to Malaysia. Bella is excited to explore more of the island. I'd be up for more diving, but otherwise would be happy to move on.