(written 17 July 2006)

Much to sum up. Must be brief. Flight to Delhi notable for old ? Russian jet -- broad (3x3x3 seats) and tall ceiling, roomy baggage compartment. Friendly people, older woman next to us returning from visiting family in Canada helped another woman a few seats up with her often crying infant (10mo?). Air conditioning / vent on the *back* of the seat in front to blow in our face. No movie no screen. Arrived at Delhi airport at 3AM, easily found our bags (thank God they all made it) and waited until about 4:30 AM before venturing off. Prepaid taxi voucher, then out. Through a few doors, maybe we'd walked into a large room with no a/c . I looked up and thought the room was too large, that the ceiling looked too much like a... no wait it was - a road, a highway, and a purple black sky peeking out from behind the awning over the exit. After a few steps, I saw the road at our level, taxis lined up and packed with people. Behind the taxis a cow walked along the road, flapping its tail.

With all our bags, and unclear where to get our prepaid taxi, (and my western face) we were accosted by many, and eventually Bella asked a man where to get our prepaid taxi. He pointed the way, and his friends came and carried our bags to the cab. Only had 7 rupees for them, which was too little for their liking.

Arrived at Meera's house by 5ish July 14 near AIIMS the All India Institute of Medical Sciences -- NIH for India. Meera's husband is a biophysicist working on drugs to interrupt lactoferrin in breast cancer. Sheila heard us milling about trying to figure out how to ring the bell and ushered us in. No sleep, we spent the day talking, catching up, meeting with someone from the trek agency (Sharap) wandering into Delhi (Connaught Circle) and then I took a nap while Bella met with someone from Sesame India.

Next day (July 15) I took a run in the AM. Along one of the major roads by McDonalds banks fashion shops and a canal smelling of manure from the dozen cows by its shore. 8PM bus to Manali. Bus trip long and windy, many passengers vomiting, little sleep for us but stomach OK.

In Manali, now AM of July 16, we get out of the bus, stop at a local Tibetan restaurant for some noodles.

Then to the bank to get $ for Sharap. I feel nervous carrying around so much cash - but a cop nearby was suspicious at the amount of time I was at the ATM. He hovered over us while I counted out 25000 rupees (about $550) in 500 note denominations providing some comforting security.

Then Bella and I went off to find a sleeping bag. With Sharap's help, we found the local wholesaler, who ushered us back to his house. Bella picked out a bag, and then we sat and talked with the owner/head of household for a while. He came from Tibet in the 50s when he was 11 years old to flee the Chinese. Settled in Manali, then a small village, but now an increasingly large town for the trekking industry since tourism began 30 yrs ago. He has a porch overlooking mountains and pine trees -- idyllic.


Jeep ride to Darcha bumpy for 6 hours. 2 Indian army checkpoints. Rotung pass. There's one spot where they have paragliding set up -- 500 rupees and then strap you to a parachute, jump off with you in tandem, then float gently to a landing spot maybe 1/4 mile away.

In Darcha, we meet Dorjay our guide cum cook, and Jigmet his assistent. Pony man we meet tomorrow.

Dorjay looks mid 30s, has 10-11 years experience, and has done this trek many times -- when pressed, he admits maybe it has become a bit boring.

Jigmet must be 18-20, 2 years experience, first time Darcha-Lamayuru for him. Set up our tent (we ask them to give back the tent they have already set up for us). We bring the maps to Dorjay and walk through the whole trek -- looks like we walk a bit every day with some days hard, some mellow. Dinner is meat dumplings made in town (momo) and rice and tea (soljat).

Met Greg in nearby tent -- guy from Chicago making similar trek. He asks 3 or 4 times if we are going to take rest days but doesn't look like it after talking with Dorjay.

17 July slept well in the sleeping bags for the fist time, except had to get up at 3AM to pee (Bella and I both) probably because of the acetazolamide, and the occasional rumbling of a car or truck over the bridge near the campsite. In the AM, woke 6-6:30ish. Bella full of energy, me a bit sleepy. Soljat cornflakes peanut butter jelly bread breakfast. We meet Sonam, our pony man. He's been doing this for 30 years.

And then Dorjay Bella and I are off. We hike up the main road a bit, then turn off and climb to a path with a great view of the river Barai Nala. We then join up with the road they are building from Darsha to Padum and follow that (as we will for the rest of today and half tomorrow). Meet up with a large (20ish people) Dutch group. They are very interested in the Editions Olizine maps I obtained. One of the Western leaders Remco Wullems had done the Kang La and Miyar valley and glacier hike some years earlier with Nepali porters, and he said it was amazing. Also suggested the nigutse la variant in the last days of the trek -- 5100 meters and moonscape surroundings, but lots (30) of river crossings. (We'll happily avoid this route - rains would make those river crossings dangerous at best).

We do our first river crossing this day -- shoes off and wade across. Bit scary when the current is high, but the water no higher than mid calf.

Through some towns Chumik and Nakpo, our first Mani wall, noticing trash on the trail. Get to Palamo, and see our first tea tent -- made from parachutes left over from food drop. Soljat, then around the back side of the campground to avoid the mass of Dutch. Lunch in a box: potato, hard boiled egg, jelly sandwich, chocolate bar, and (sorry) I'd crushed the bananas. Set up tent then three hour solid nap.

Greg is here. He is a law professor from Chicago. We talk about using acetazolamide for AMS. He actually pops into our tent during dinner and starts blabbling away to us, without introducing himself (or even greeting) Dorjay or Jigmet. Then sleep again.